There is a stigma that wine can only be enjoyed if the drinker has a broad knowledge and understanding of wine. Emily Gold would like to break that stereotype, which is why PMG is about comfort, fun and approachability to wine and food.
On a quiet Monday evening, I walk into PMG and am instantly greeted with a smile from PMG’s new GM, Jovee. The bar is packed with early birds enjoying happy hour. The space is filled with warm, early evening sunlight. The atmosphere is calm, comfortable and cozy. As I sit and wait for Emily Gold, I am approached several times, suggesting that the service here is very attentive.
Though I have met Ms. Gold once before, I am shocked at how young she is. At the age of 28, she is the owner of Boulder’s only wine bar, which will celebrate its one year anniversary this August. When asked if I would like some wine, I ask her to bring me whatever her favorite is at the moment. Later I find out that asking Emily for her favorite wine is a silly question; to Emily wine is connected to mood- there is not a single favorite.
Shortly after graduating from CU Denver, Emily was hired by Kermit Lynch and had the opportunity to work in Burgundy for two years, where her love and knowledge of wine continued to grow. She returned to Boulder with the intention of filling a gap in the Boulder restaurant scene: a place with a focus on wine, specifically from lesser-known, quality producers.
The best way to experience PMG is to try a variety of things. The menu changes daily and seasonally, consisting of plates meant to be shared. PMG’s chef, Salvatore Proia, has full reign in the menu design. The food is French and Italian inspired, but the ingredients are sourced locally. An example of a popular seasonal dish consists of sugar snap peas, charred and served with prosciutto and ricotta.
The wine list changes frequently. Most of the wines Emily purchases come from small producers, and a wine stays on the menu until the bottles run out. However, two consistent wines are the house white and red, which are only $5 during happy hour, 4-6pm every day. Produced in Tuscany, the red is a high-quality Sangiovese, while the white is a made from Grillo, a Sicilian white grape.
PMG focuses on finding trusted producers for their entry level wines, which are affordable and high-quality. By bringing them to Boulder, Emily’s hope is that customers start to love and appreciate wine as much as she does. In Europe, wine is enjoyed on its own, often as an after-dinner indulgence. In the US, it is an accompaniment to dinner. The goal of PMG is to change that mentality.
Emily tells me that she loves to sit with friends, drink wine and have discussions about the wines. I ask her if we can do that.
The first wine we drink is Francois Chidaine Montlouis sur Loire Brut Nature NV, which is a sparkling Chenin Blanc. Chenin Blanc is a versatile grape. This specific wine is high in acid, light, bubbly and feels good to drink. It smells fresh, with notes of green apple and fresh applesauce. With no oak or sugar added, the wine is tart and linear, but complex. It is meant as an aperitif, a good way to start off a meal, or in our case, a conversation.
The second wine is one that might remain on PMG’s list because it has been a crowd-pleaser. Jean-Marie Royer is known for Châteaneuf-du-pape, but his “Le Petit Roy” 2014 is a wonderful blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre. This is a Rhone wine, which Emily describes as “seductive” and easy to enjoy. The red blend smells spicy, with fig, nutmeg and clove coming through as the wine sits. It is well-balanced, with light body and tannin, minimum acidity and good structure. This red isn’t too heavy or cloying for the warm weather. It helps deepen my growing appreciation for French wines.
PMG did not do any advertising around its opening, and continues to be a hidden gem. However, PMG has regulars who come in several times per week, and customers sing praises to the service, food and wine.
In the future, Emily hopes to have wine education events where groups can gather, open a few bottles of limited selection wines and enjoy an evening of sharing, connecting and learning about wine. I can definitely say, Ill be the first to sign up.
Emily Gold’s long-term goals include opening a small space with a wine program only, where friends can gather to drink quality bottles and catch up. As of right now, though, Emily is happy with PMG’s success and excited for the way her business continues to grow.
PMG’s message to Boulder is “we are here and everything is delicious.” I only got a small glimpse of PMG, but I cannot wait to return to taste the food, drink the wine and experience a tiny bit of Europe.