Take an uninspiring strip mall location, a non-descript Irish name that promises a staunch commitment to the generic, and a menu that lives up to that promise with each Gorgonzola Chicken Salad and Sweet Onion Mushroom Burger and what have you got?  A case study in the value of intangibles, is what, here measured in the genuinely good-natured service delivered by a youthful staff who seem to have missed the memo circulating among their cohort calling for a default mien of ironic detachment and/or barely suppressed rage.

Add in consistent quality out of the kitchen and a bar equally welcoming to jabbering regulars, a soccer team over post-game pitchers, or you with your Daily Camera, and you end up with a testament to the power of commitment over concept.   If there is a lesson here, it is the same one that has been jack-hammered into our crania by every Hollywood rom-com since before Harry met Sally.  The girl next door (in this case a freckle-faced redhead) will always love you more than the beautiful, rich drama queen from Uptown.

L.V. Torio

About L.V. Torio

L.V. Torio has been around Boulder since the 80's, long enough to have witnessed the Aristocrat Diner's transformation into the Gap for Kids, an event that for him signaled the beginning of the end (with apologies to Greil Marcus) of the "old, weird Boulder." Fortunately, he finds the new Boulder equally weird, not least in the way its food and drink purveyors consistently stir the imagination, enliven the palate, and gratify the gut.

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